Winter impressions of Mount Vigiljoch

The short cable car ride that bridges the difference in altitude contributes greatly to the charm of the place. In these suspended moments one can pause, take in the panorama and attune oneself to the day ahead. The route of the recently modernised cable car follows the line of the original track built in 1912. The Vigiljoch cable car is the second-oldest in Europe and a key element in the history of local tourism.
In its early days, the Vigiljoch was above all a destination for high society. Wealthy families spent their holidays in Merano for spa treatments – the precious water springs from here – and ventured up to the mountain even in winter. Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Este, Archduke of Austria-Hungary, and his wife Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg, ascended the mountain by cable car, as did Fritz von Herzmanovsky-Orlando, Franz Kafka, Christian Morgenstern and Franz Lehár.
Over time, visitors had various holiday homes built on the Vigiljoch, while farmers generally constructed alpine huts for storing hay.

Another period of prosperity began in the 1950s, when the cable car was renovated and the plateau – thanks also to new lift facilities – became a popular winter sports destination in the Merano area. During those years, competitions, fun races and lively winter days took place here, memories of which many still cherish. The chairlift carried skiers onto the gentle slopes, where families and ski clubs experienced winter as a sporting adventure and children made their first turns in the snow.
Today, however, skiing is no longer possible here. Climatic conditions have changed, snowfall is no longer reliable, and with it the ski schools and organised winter sports have disappeared. What remains are the open expanses, the quiet slopes and the awareness of a former use that shaped this place for a long time.
Instead of athletic speed, the conscious experience of the landscape now takes centre stage. The Vigiljoch has redefined itself and today offers space for tranquillity, observing nature and slow movement – a winter experience beyond pistes and lifts.
Hikers, today as in the past, encounter an unspoilt and wholesome environment. No cars circulate here. There are few mountain villages so untouched, where one can move about freely on foot without the roar of passing traffic. From the mountain station, numerous gently graded paths lead to several easily accessible alpine huts, which remain open even during the winter months.
At this time of year, the pleasure of strolling along snow-covered paths is perfectly complemented by the comfort of quiet moments spent in the various inns scattered across the mountain. A warm meal, a slice of cake or apple strudel, and a glass of good local wine are the honest reward at the end of the walk.

Walking across winter meadows and through snow-laden forests, with the snow crunching underfoot, is a special experience. With snowshoes – available for hire at the valley station – the landscape can be explored safely and in depth. One such snowshoe walk leads directly to the ancient (c. 1100), picturesque Church of St Vigilius, which gives the plateau its name.
The early Romanesque building, with its bell tower, exudes an air of mystery. The little church, whose interior features beautiful 14th-century frescoes, is said to have been built on a prehistoric place of worship. On Lana’s local mountain, Stone Age finds as well as Bronze Age cup stones with enigmatic carvings have been discovered.
It is also said that this place is a mystical site of energy, concealing countless distant stories. Another magical spot is the Schwarze Lacke: many myths and legends surround this mountain lake. Following the path behind the church leads directly to it, while at the same time offering an impressive view of the Dolomites.
Nestled in the forest, the small alpine lake takes on an especially dark hue in summer, speckled with white water lilies. In winter, an icy layer covers its surface and – when conditions permit – transforms the landscape into a silent, fairy-tale scene.
At last, I have arrived. The stillness of the high plateau flows through me, heightening my sense of well-being in contact with nature. The air is biting yet refreshingly clear. With every breath, the body relaxes. It is said that snow has no scent – and yet here I perceive a unique bouquet of pure nature.
The day, under a cloudless sky, unfolds before me in all its fullness, as in my most cherished childhood memories.