Climbing in Schnalstal Valley

Climbing in Schnalstal Valley

Via Ferrata and climbing around the Schnalstal Glacier

All types of climbing in Schnalstal Valley are possible – alpine climbing as well as sport climbing and bouldering.
Climbing like a spider on a weathered rock face at a dizzy height far above the ground. A great feeling that's so hard to put into words!

Beginners and families can meet at the Marchegg Rock Gym, in front of the village of Maso Corto/Kurzras. The Mastaun climbing garden is located near the village of Madonna di Senales/Unser Frau, about 20 minutes walk from the Mastaunalm mountain hut. It provides mainly demanding routes for experienced climbers. The climbing garden beneath Juval Castle and the Hoachwool via ferrata also promise challenges for expert climbers, at the entrance to the Schnalstal Valley.
Climbing Wall Juval
The steep, smooth rock-face at the entrance to the Schnalstal Valley, just under Juval Castle, the home of well-known mountaineer and explorer Reinhold Messner, is the perfect place for beginners to the sport or more expert rock climbers who wish to improve and practise their technique over routes varying from grade 5 to 9. There are introductory courses for beginning who want to feel the sheer excitement and adrenalin-rush this sport gives them. You'll soon find that it really is not as difficult as it looks!
Where: At the entrance to the Schnalstal Valley
When: From spring to autumn
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Climbing Wall Marchegg
Close to the Marchegghof, near Maso Corto and approx. 2 km from the glacier cable car, the AVS local group Schnalstal Valley has built a climbing garden. The climbing garden is family-friendly and offers different levels of difficulty. In July and August the Tourism Association organise trial climbing for children and adults on Fridays. A via ferrata of approx. 25 m is also available.
Conservation: We ask climbers and families with children to not leave any rubbish behind. Because cattle graze here in summer, we ask you to close the grate on the fence.
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The climbing garden Mastaun
The climbing garden Mastaun is located in the high valley oft he same name near Madonna di Senales in Schnalstal Valley, approx. 20 minutes walk behind the Mastaunalm hut.
The approx. 70 metre high rock face offers technically challenging routes over several pitches in the middle of an untouches natural landscape. It was initiated and built by Nereo Ongaro (AVS Schnalstal Valley), further routes are planned.
Special features: Due to the exposed location oft he rock face, the multi-rope lenghts and the technically challenging routes, the climbing garden is suitable for experienced climbers.
How to get there: from Merano, take the direction Passo Resia to Naturno. After the tunnel of Naturno, take the mainstreet on your right side and enter in Schnalstal Valley tunnel. After about 13 km you reach the village Madonna di Senales. Turn left at the second traffic light and follow the signs to maso Mastaunhof. Parking is available at the maso Mastaunhof, where the last stretch leads over the unpaved farm road, or in the village of Madonna di Senales. (approx. 20 minutes walk to the maso Mastaunhof)
Directions: from maso Mastaunhof follow path no. 17a, past the Mastaunalm hut, to the waterfall, from there follow path no. 19a towards Mastaunjoch until you reach the climbing garden on the orographic left side. Walking time approx. 40 minutes from maso Mastaunhof.
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Climbing Wall Hoachwool - Fixed Rope Route
Impressive cliffs, the unique landscape of the Sonnenberg mountain above Naturns, breathtaking views and the impressive Waale (the traditional Alpine irrigation system) – the Hoachwool fixed rope route offers all this and more. The fixed rope route crosses the former “Schnalswaal” irrigation channel near Naturns and gives an idea of the dangers and hardships that peasants faced in building and maintaining the channel. The varied terrain offers steep, difficult parts, short walking sections and exposed traverses. The ascent requires suitable equipment as well as the necessary climbing skill and experience, ab - solute sure-footedness and a head for heights. The route is secured as necessary by steel ropes, climbing aids and ladders. The “Sattele” rest area in the middle of the wall affords climbers a relax - ing break. This is an impressive, varied and challenging half-day tour.
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Training and family via ferrata “KNOTT”
The training- and family via ferrata “KNOTT” is located on the rock outcrop upon which a skywalk is anchored. There is a magnificent view from the observation deck onto the individual routes and the climbers. There are a total of four via ferrata routes on the rock called the “KNOTT”; one short connector route, a 20 m long suspended bridge and two steep ladders. Here, it is possible to climb and train for as long as anyone desires. There are simple routes, difficult passages, exposed tracks and technical sections. It is accessible any and every time of day, because the access and the descent are short.

The route “Sally” (B–B/C–D) commences right at the foot of the wall, at the lowest point. 50 m of steel cable lead up over two overhangs and to the “big foot bridge”. The approx. 4 m high saucer overhang (Untertassen-Überhang) is the most difficult (D). The routes known as “Turtle”, “Affele” (little monkey) and “Rocky” can be reached by crossing the “big foot bridge”. “Turtle” is the easiest route (B). 40 m of steel cable lead to the exit. All the difficult sections have been equipped with metal steps to facilitate navigation of this route.

Halfway up the “Turtle” route, the element known as the friction traverse (Reibungs Traverse / A–C) leads to the right. The exit is difficult (C) and ends at the first sky ladder.

The route “Affele” (a total of 50 m of steel cable) commences with the challenging squirrel (Oacherle) traverse (B –C/D) and leads over the “elephant belly” (Elefantenbauch / C) up to the first sky ladder. The exit (B–A) follows.

The route “Rocky” (a total of 60 m steel cable) begins after the “squirrel traverse”. Subsequently, there is another traverse (Weg zum Geist) to the right and across a small overhang (B/C) in order to get to the second, very steep sky ladder. The rest of the route (A–B) leads across the “eye” (das Auge) of the Ghost and involves an easy traverse as well as a ridge climb to the exit.
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Via Ferrata Ziel
Via Ferrata Ziel
Take the Texelbahn cable car directly to the famous Merano High Mountain Trail (no. 24) . Heading in a westerly direction towards Nasereit refuge, the via ...
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