A high mountain climb across the glacier and over the rocks
This two-day trip is recommended only for those with a head for heights (not for sufferers of vertigo), sure-footed, sturdy climbers with experience in glacier and rock-climbing. Under no circumstances should anyone attempt to climb the flat Schwarzwandscharte wind gap without ropes. Right from the outset there are hidden crevasses under the snow, some of which run in the direction of travel. Some sections of the Wilder Pfaff are rated II on the Difficulty Level Scale (UIAA). The gap below the Zuckerhütl summit is very steep and at times smooth and slippery (note: ice axes and crampons are essential). An experienced guide is highly advisable on this high mountain hiking adventure.
Starting point: Timmelsbrücke bridge km 19,7
Endpoint: Timmelsbrücke bridge km 19,7
Refreshment stop: Timmelsalm pasture, Müllerhütte refuge
Starting at the parking lot across Timmelsbrücke bridge, take the road on the right to the main valley leading north to the Timmelsalm pasture. Crossing over the bridge behind the hut continue left in a northeasterly direction, where the Passer river winds its way across the wide Unterkrumpwasser plateau. From here, keep on the left side of the valley before reaching a hill that rises steeply in front of the Schwarzsee lake ( trail no. 30).
Großer Schwarzsee lake climb northeast up the left face and after crossing the top of the wide basin, scale the moraine hill before reaching the Schwarzwandscharte wind gap (30) and the start of the glacier. Roped together, continue north on the Übeltalferner (hanging glacier). Relatively flat at first, it becomes steeper before straightening out again higher up on the ridge to the left of the Müllerhutte refuge.
Heading northwest along the flat crest leads to the eastern foot of the mountain before tackling the exposed steep rocky ridge up to the top of Wilder Pfaff mountain. The rock face above is managed with via ferrata chains. The altitude difference from the Wilder Pfaff is about 100 vertical meters westwards along easy terrain up to the glacier. Roped up, climb the hanging glacier that grows gradually steeper until the top of the Zuckerhütl mountain. The last section along the very steep south face is partly managed with via ferrata chains.
Passing Wilder Pfaff, descend from the Zuckerhütl summit to the Müllerhutte refuge.
From the refuge, head down to the Übeltalferner glacier to the Schwarzsee lake (30).
From there continue to the Timmelsalm pasture and then to Timmelsbrücke on trail no. 30.
Source: "Wanderführer Passeiertal " - Heinz Widmann
Description to arrive at destination
From Merano / Meran to the Passeier Valley in direction of Passo Rombo / Moso until the bridge ponte Tumulo.
Parking is available in the car park to the right of the Timmelsbrücke bridge or directly before the bridge to the left of the road.
From mid-June to mid-October, the starting point of the hike can be reached from St. Leonhard by Timmelsbus. For this tour, however, it is recommended to drive to the starting point, as you should start the tour early in the morning.
A head for heights, surefootedness, glacier experience and some climbing experience are prerequisites for this high-alpine tour. At the Schwarzwandscharte, you should definitely not enter the flat glacier before the obligatory roping up, as there are hidden crevasses right at the beginning. When arranging the rope team, bear in mind that some of the possibly hidden crevasses run in the direction you are walking. Some parts of the Wilden Pfaff have a difficulty level of II. The glacier field below the Zuckerhütl is very steep and sometimes icy.
Good glacier equipment is a prerequisite for this partly technically demanding high altitude tour. Good hiking boots, crampons, ice axe, possibly a helmet, climbing harness and a safety rope are just as important as normal hiking clothing as well as rain and sun protection.