The
“Tracht” is the traditional attire of the South Tyrolean people. South Tyrol has a wide variety of different costumes that are unique in the alpine region. Every valley, almost every village even, has its own costume that differs from that of its neighbours when it comes to colour, style and decoration.
The traditional costume is the people’s grandest outfit, worn for festivities and special occasions in South Tyrol. It is also seen during performances and appearances by bands, riflemen or folk dancing groups. The wearing of “tracht” is very closely connected to the idea of homeland and is representative of people’s appreciation of a centuries’ old folk culture. The tradition is carefully and reverentially perpetuated and cultivated by every generation.
History that can be worn
Our traditional costume is a priceless asset. Its roots stretch back well into the 18th century. It was during this time that the typical everyday and feast day clothing of the predominantly rural population that is known as “tracht” today came into being.
Only high-quality materials are used by genuine craftspeople to make the traditional attire. Lovingly sewn and timeless: “tracht” was and still is the best and most prized clothing of South Tyroleans.
Our finest attire
In the Burggrafenamt region and in Partschins too, to the present day the
Burggräfler Tracht is worn at church feast days, family celebrations, weddings and burials. Essentially there are two forms of this costume, each of which must be worn according to particular rules:
• women wear the “Bäurisches Gewand” (rustic costume) or “Burggräfler Miedertracht” (Burggrafenamt bodice costume)
• men wear the “Lang-” or “Kurzbäurisches Gewand” (long or short rustic costume)
The
“Burggräfler Tüchltracht” (Burggrafenamt scarf costume), known for short as the “Bäurisches” (rustic), has existed in its present form since the end of the 19th century. To the present day, the women of the Burggrafenamt are marked out by their coloured “übertüchl” (or top scarf). Traditionally it is made of silk and embellished with knotted tassels or embroidered borders. The “Bairisches”, as it is known in the local dialect, consists of a black woollen skirt (“kietl”) over which an apron is tied - in a colour that matches the scarf. In the colder months of the year, the women wear a long-sleeved black “tschoap” or fitted blouse. A triangular, white “untertüchl” (or underscarf) is always pinned below the neckline. In the warmer months of the year the rustic costume can also be worn “pfoatärmelig” or with short sleeves. Instead of the “tschoap”, a black bodice can be worn with a white linen blouse underneath. Opaque stockings and black leather shoes round off the rustic costume.
The "sutlers" - tyrolean:
"Marketenderinnen" of the
Partschins music band can always be seen in the
“Bairisches” costume too.
The
Burggräfler Miedertracht (Burggrafenamt bodice costume), known in the vernacular as the “Meraner dirndl” is a modernized form of the historic woman’s costume. It consists of a black skirt, known as a “kietl”. The apron (“schurz”) of blue woollen material, cotton or linen is in a single colour or has a blue printed pattern. Women wear a red laced bodice over the white blouse, which is trimmed with fine lace at the neckline and on the sleeves. The silk gauze (a silk handkerchief) in a brownish-black colour is loosely placed on top or crossed over and tucked into the bodice. Costume shoes with lacy stockings round off the “Burggräfler Miedertracht”, which is the traditional attire of the women of Partschins’ band.
The men’s costume, the “Langbäurisches”, consists of a white shirt (“pfoat”) and a black velvet waistcoat (“leibl”). The long, black loden cloth trousers are held up by green braces. The main feature of the traditional men’s costume is, without a doubt, the eye-catching hat and decoration: made of black felt it is adorned with red geraniums (or “brennetliab”). The men also wear a neck tie.
In summer it is the turn of the “Kurzbäurisches”: this consists of short lederhosen (leather shorts), which are held up by green braces, a quill embroidered leather belt and a red waistcoat. Instead of a tie, the men wear a gauze scarf and, to cover their bare lower legs, knee-length socks known as “stutzn”.
Costume Hairstyles
Women have always taken great pains to match their hairstyles to their costume. According to ancient tradition, the hair should not fall into the face - for which reason it is mostly pinned up in the nape of the neck or wound into a bun. A silver or silver-plated or gold-plated brass hair pin is then stuck horizontally in to the bun. Women with short hair dispense with the hair pin.
Together with the proper costume, the hairstyle highlights the very personal beauty of each and every wearer.
Source: "Inser beschtes Gwond" - by the South Tyrolean Farm Women's Organisation.
Publishing house Effekt! Gmbh
ISBN 978889705321
Available in bookshops.