Simon Staffler

Born in 1988, wine-writer/sommelier, Simon Staffler, has what’s referred to as a “dream job”. As the Falstaff wine and lifestyle magazine correspondent for Italy Staffler regularly visits one Italian winery after the other, appraising their wines.

Since you spend most of the year visiting Italian winegrowing regions, what do you think makes South Tyrolean wine stand out in this wine-savvy country?
At the moment, South Tyrol wine is considered incredibly sexy in Rome, Florence and Milan. There are two factors involved: the very high quality of the wines and the focused, targeted marketing of the distributors. Combined, these two factors are like dynamite that knock down any barriers. Add to that the unity and cohesion of South Tyrolean winemakers which, of course, is real and you have an unstoppable force. But let’s not forget that, as a wine-growing region, South Tyrol is vanishingly small and continuing to go it alone might end up in oblivion.

In recent years, Vinschgau Valley wine production has developed from a local South Tyrolean phenomenon to an authentic wine-producing sub-region in its own right. Does that come as a surprise or was it already on the cards?
Vinschgau Valley’s success is largely due to its two heavyweight players: Franz Pratzner (Falkenstein Winery) and Martin Aurich (Unterortl Winery). It’s mostly thanks to this pair that the Lower Vinschgau Valley has been catapulted onto the wine map with their top-notch wines. Funnily enough, many locals aren’t even aware of this. To them, Franz Pratzner is just a local winemaker, or someone they’ve only heard of. But in Milan, he’s considered a rising star! The Vinschgau Valley is a young wine-producing area with a lot of potential. As far as I’m concerned, the main problem is that a critical volume of wine produced needs to be reached for this sub-region to gain credibility as a serious winegrowing region. But due to its particular topography, the Vinschgau Valley has limited scope for expanding its existing vinicultural areas. Since wine-farmers and winemakers are practical types, they’ll think twice before planting vines on steep slopes!

What is it about the Vinschgau Valley as a wine region that makes it stand out? How would you describe it to someone who’s never been here before?
Growing vines here is very challenging and requires a lot of skill: there are the steep slopes, a dry climate, unusual wind conditions and different soil types to contend with. These are just some of the adverse factors. The vineyards are also very small in size and there aren’t any large contiguous cultivation areas that you’ll find in other winegrowing areas. In such a situation, winemaking is derived from pure passion and conviction, otherwise you wouldn’t even attempt it. Obviously, some of the other factors affecting other wine-growing areas in South Tyrol also applies to the Vinschgau Valley. For example, extreme weather events including hailstorms have been on the increase in recent years – further complicating the work of the winegrowers.